The French Twist: How to Create the Iconic Updo

The French twist hairstyle is a look that never goes out of style. From beautifully polished bridal hair to relaxed updos, there are so many ways to make this hairstyle your own. Whether you're searching for an elegant hairstyle for a wedding, an elevated everyday updo or simply want to master a new way to style your hair, in this blog, Chloe Whittle, Senior Digital and In-Salon Educator at Neäl & Wølf, shares everything you need to know.

What is a French twist?

A French twist is created when your hair is gathered at the back of your head, twisted vertically and tucked inwards. Rather than creating a traditional bun shape, hair sits against your head vertically, creating a shape that is instantly recognisable.

Traditional French twist hairstyles are usually sleek and close to your head, but the style can easily be adapted. A loose French twist with face-framing pieces creates a softer, more romantic finish, while a slick French twist gives you a polished look that's perfect for more formal occasions.

What does a French twist look like?

A classic French twist usually includes:

• A vertical roll running up the back of your head
• Hair tucked nicely inside the twist
• A smooth or textured finish
• Hair pins or grips hidden in the style
• Optional loose pieces framing your face

How do you do a French twist?

French twists look complicated, but they can be easy to master at home. Alongside bobby pins and hair pins, our styling products can help you to create the look from your dressing room.

Step 1: Prepare and smooth your hair

Start with dry hair and gently brush from root to tip using our HERØ Paddle Brush. Designed for detangling, smoothing and finishing, the wide paddle brush works through larger sections of hair while its ionic nylon bristles help minimise static and tame flyaways. This makes it ideal for creating the sleek foundation of a classic French twist.

Don't worry about making your hair perfectly smooth at this stage – we're going to add some texture next to help the twist stay in place.

Step 2: Add texture and grip

One of the biggest challenges when learning how to do a French twist on yourself is getting the hair to stay where you put it – especially if it's freshly washed or fine.

Mist TEXTURE Dry Texture & Finishing Spray through dry hair, concentrating on the areas where you want additional body and grip. This adds shape, movement and dimensional texture while maintaining flexible hold and volume, helping create the texture needed for an updo. Use your fingertips to work the product through your hair rather than brushing it straight back out.

Step 3: Add a touch of polish

If your mid-lengths and ends are feeling dry or prone to frizz, warm a small amount of VELVET Nourishing Hair Oil between your palms and lightly smooth it through them. The key word here is lightly. You want VELVET to help the lengths feel soft, nourished and polished without removing the texture and grip you've just created.

If your hair is particularly fine or already very smooth, you can save VELVET until the end and use it purely as a finishing touch.

Step 4: Create volume at the crown

For a fuller French twist, use your fingertips to lift the hair around the crown. You can also gently backcomb underneath the top section if you want more height. Keep the top layer untouched, then lightly smooth it over using the HERØ Paddle Brush.

Avoid brushing all the way through your hair at this point – you want to smooth the visible surface while preserving the texture and volume underneath.

Step 5: Gather your hair

Sweep your hair towards the back of your head as though you're creating a low ponytail, but don't secure it with a hair tie. Use the HERØ Paddle Brush to gently smooth the sides as you gather the hair.

For a sleek French twist, keep the sides controlled and polished. If you're creating a more relaxed, modern French twist, leave a little volume around the crown and allow a few soft pieces to fall around the face.

Step 6: Create your anchor

Sweep all of the gathered hair towards one side of your head. Place several bobby pins vertically up the centre of the back of your head. Slightly overlap or cross the grips so they form a secure anchor. This hidden row of pins gives the hair something to hold onto when you create your roll.

Step 7: Create the French twist

Bring your lengths back across the centre and begin rolling the hair upwards and inwards. Use your fingers to guide the hair into the signature vertical shape of a French twist hairstyle, rolling the lengths over your line of bobby pins so they're concealed underneath.

For a classic French twist, keep the roll smooth and relatively tight. For a more contemporary look, don't worry about making it perfect – a little softness and texture can make the finished updo feel beautifully effortless.

Step 8: Tuck and pin

Once you're happy with your French twist, tuck the ends inside the roll until they're hidden. If you have long or thick hair, you may need to fold the lengths before tucking them into the twist.

Secure everything with hair pins. Catch a small amount of hair from the outer edge of the roll before turning each pin inwards and pushing it into the hair underneath. This helps secure the twist while keeping your pins discreet.

Step 9: Perfect the finish

Now you can decide exactly how polished you want your French twist to look. For a sleek French twist, use the HERØ Paddle Brush to very gently perfect the visible surface and smooth the hair around your hairline.

Warm a tiny amount of VELVET Nourishing Hair Oil between your palms or fingertips and lightly smooth it over any dry-looking ends or stubborn flyaways. Prefer an undone French twist? Skip the extra brushing and gently loosen the hair around the crown with your fingertips before pulling out a few delicate face-framing strands.

Step 10: Set your French twist

Finish by setting your hairstyle with CONTROL Flexible Styling Hairspray for long-lasting yet flexible hold.

For an extra-glossy finish, add a light mist of GLOW Super Shine Spray. Its lightweight formula adds shine while helping to smooth the hair, control frizz and reduce static – perfect for giving an elegant French twist that final touch of polish.

How do you make a French twist look modern?

The easiest way to make a French twist more modern is to embrace your imperfections. Instead of making every section sleek, leave subtle texture through your hair and then gently loosen the twist. A few soft pieces around your face can transform a traditional twist into something much more relaxed.

Accessories can make a difference, too. A decorative hair pin, clip, or statement accessory can instantly give this classic hairstyle a modern update.

How long does your hair have to be for a French twist?

Medium to long hair is usually the easiest to style into a French twist, as you need to give yourself enough length to create the roll and tuck the ends inside. This said, you don’t necessarily need very long hair.

Layers can affect how easily your hairstyle comes together. If shorter pieces escape from the twist, don’t worry - either secure them with additional grips or embrace them as part of a softer, more undone finish.

Can you do a French twist on fine hair?

Yes, fine hair can be styled into a French twist, although adding some texture before styling can make it easier to create volume and hold.

Avoid weighing fine hair down with too much product. Instead, use lightweight styling products and gently create volume through the crown before forming your twist.

You can also carefully loosen the finished roll with your fingertips to give the illusion of a fuller, more voluminous French twist.

Can you do a French twist on thick hair?

Absolutely. Thick hair can create a beautifully full French twist, but you may need to work with additional hair pins to keep everything secure.

If your hair is particularly long and thick, concentrate on creating a firm anchor with your grips before you begin twisting. You can then secure the finished roll in several places rather than relying on one or two pins.

Do you need a hair pin to do a French twist?

Hair pins aren't the only way to secure a French twist, but they are one of the easiest options. Bobby pins or grips are particularly useful for creating the initial anchor, while larger hair pins can secure the outer roll without being overly visible. Different accessories can also change the appearance of your French twist.

When should you wear a French twist?

One of the greatest things about a French twist is its versatility. It can be polished enough for a wedding yet relaxed enough for dinner or an elevated everyday look.

A French twist works particularly well for:

• Weddings: A beautiful bridal or wedding guest hairstyle.
• Parties: Add shine and statement accessories for a glamorous finish.
• Date nights: Opt for a softer twist with loose face-framing pieces.
• Work: Keep the shape simple and polished for a professional updo.
• Formal events: A sleek French twist pairs beautifully with eveningwear.
• Everyday styling: Choose a relaxed twist secured with a simple French pin or clip.

The secret is adapting the finish to the occasion. The smoother and more structured the twist, the more formal it tends to feel. Looser texture creates a softer effect.

What’s the difference between a French roll and a French twist?

French roll and French twist are often used to describe the same or very similar hairstyles. Both involve gathering the hair and creating a vertical rolled or twisted shape at the back of the head.

Where a distinction is made, a French roll often describes a particularly smooth and structured roll, while a French twist may have a slightly softer, more visibly twisted finish. However, you'll often find the two names used interchangeably.

How are French twists and chignons different?

The main difference between a French twist and a chignon is the shape and positioning of the hair.

A French twist creates an elongated vertical roll against the back of the head. A chignon usually gathers the hair into a rounded bun or knot, often positioned at the nape of the neck.

Read more about the Chignon: The Chic in Chignon Hair: A Style Guide

How to create the perfect French twist finish

From sleek and sculpted to soft and effortlessly undone, the beauty of the French twist lies in making this timeless style your own. Once you’ve mastered the simple roll-and-pin technique, it’s an updo you can return to for everything from everyday elegance to weddings and special occasions. View our full range of styling products: Styling & Finishing Products