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Dandruff is one of the most common scalp concerns, but it is often misunderstood. In this blog Laura Elliott, Head of Education at Neäl & Wølf explores what dandruff really is, the causes behind it, and how the right routine can restore harmony to your scalp.
What is dandruff?
More formally known as Seborrheic Dermatitis, dandruff is an incredibly common skin condition that affects roughly 50% of adults and often causes embarrassment and high levels of irritation amongst its hosts. Often the advice given is to ‘just stop itching’, but we know here at Neäl & Wølf that it’s not as easy as it sounds and the itching can be intense, sometimes uncontrollable.
The uncontrollable itching and embarrassment pushes people to desperately search the market for dandruff specific products, but what if we told you that’s not necessary and your solution could be an everyday shampoo and styling oil?
The problem with dandruff specific products is that often they’re actually no different to everyday hair products, and once they’ve served their purpose the bottles sit in your shower cubicle until the end of time…
Here at Neäl & Wølf we aimed to create a range that’s suitable for all kinds of people and situations. For example, our HARMONY range isn’t advertised as a curly hair product, however it’s the perfect treatment for dehydrated, curly locks. Going back to the subject of dandruff, we created our DAILY and VELVET range to cover a wide variety of needs from people with hair extensions, to grease-prone hair, to dandruff.
What causes dandruff?
Dandruff is one of the most common scalp concerns, but it’s not always a result of dryness - it can also be linked to scalp imbalance. Below, we’ve listed some of the key factors that cause dandruff.
Malassezia fungus
Most adults have yeast that occurs naturally on their scalp, but when it grows too excessively it can cause irritation. This can make skin cells fall off, appearing as visible, itchy flakes.
Oily scalp
Dandruff is actually closely associated with excess oil rather than dryness. Build up of sebum (natural oils) can create the ideal environment for fungus to thrive, increasing the likelihood of flaking.
Not washing hair enough
Infrequent washing can lead to oil, dead skin cells and product residue building up on your scalp. Over time, this can affect the natural balance of your scalp and lead to dandruff. For more advice on hair washing, read our blog: How Often Should You Wash Your Hair
Skin conditions
Certain skin conditions, like seborrhoeic dermatitis, psoriasis or eczema, can cause flaking and irritation. These conditions need targeted care and professional guidance to treat.
Dry skin
Unlike oil-related dandruff, dry-skin flakes are typically finer and less oily in appearance. The dandruff is small and white, and can particularly occur in the colder months.
Sensitivity to products
Some ingredients in shampoo and styling products can cause irritation, which can lead to inflamed flaking as part of the skin’s response.
Stress
High stress levels can disrupt the natural balance of your body, which can then impact scalp health and increase the likelihood of dandruff flare ups.
Hormones
Hormonal changes can influence oil production, and in turn affect the condition of your scalp. This is particularly common during puberty of menopause.
Diet
An imbalanced diet can create a decline in overall skin health, including the scalp. Always ensure that you take essential vitamins and minerals to ensure skin renews well.
Cold weather
Lower temperatures and indoor heating can dry your scalp out, so most people notice increased dandruff during the winter months.
How do you treat dandruff?
You can usually treat dandruff easily at home, following the following advice:
The right shampoo and conditioner
Our DAILY Cleansing Shampoo & Conditioner was created for everyday use, our aim was to make something deep cleansing whilst still remaining gentle and soothing – who said deep cleansing has to mean dry hair! Let’s dig into some of the ingredients and why these can be helpful to people suffering with dandruff or any type of flaky skin condition…
Video Credit: Instagram @ashtonpoolehairstudio
Panthenol
This is a substance that helps to retain moisture - its structure allows it to attract moisture from the atmosphere which in turn prevents the scalp from drying out further.
Citrus Fruit Extract
Citrus Fruit Extract is a fantastic ingredient for those suffering with dandruff, it helps to improve the condition of the scalp by acting as a gentle exfoliator and buffing away those flaky spots. Not just that but it’s also a great stimulator for your hair follicles, increasing blood circulation and helping with growth.
Shea Butter
A multi-functional natural emollient that absorbs rapidly into the hair without leaving a greasy film. Shea Butter Glycerides provides further conditioning to the hair and the scalp leaving it smooth and supple.
We usually wouldn’t advise anyone to wash their hair everyday however when suffering with dandruff, the rules can be bent. Daily washing is often necessary in these cases as it helps to remove the dead skin cells and prevent them from building up.
We’d advise to wash the hair daily (or as often as you feel necessary), shampoo twice using DAILY Cleansing Shampoo and then following up with the DAILY Conditioner. In severe cases, you may feel you need some extra moisture on your scalp so in this case you can run a small amount of conditioner through your roots and massage it into the scalp – remember to rinse thoroughly after to prevent greasy roots when dry!
Smoothing hair oil
Our VELVET Nourishing Hair Oil is made with a blend of three natural oils: Argan, Avocado and Jojoba. Created for use before and in-between washes, this oil provides intense hydration to not only dry ends but also the scalp. Let’s take a look at some of the main ingredients and how they can help to relieve dandruff symptoms…
Avocado Oil
Avocado Oil is a source of protein, essential fatty acids and vitamins A and C. It’s one of the most penetrating oils and is used to moisturise, soften and heal dry, damaged or prematurely aging skin – nourishing the hair and scalp simultaneously.
Argan Oil
Not only does Argan Oil reduce breakage and split ends, it’s also a fantastic ingredient to keep your scalp healthy. It is known to help prevent hair loss and keep the hair looking thicker and fuller by providing nutrients and high levels of hydration.
Jojoba Oil
You may think that an oil does one thing which provides moisture, however Jojoba Oil does much more than that. It helps to control the sebum production levels of the scalp whilst regulating the flow of sebum from clogged pores. This in turn prevents acne and build from forming on the scalp, keeping it clear and healthy.
Palmitic Acid
This acts as an emollient, softening the skin and helping the scalp to retain moisture by forming an occlusive layer – remember dandruff forms when the skin can’t retain moisture levels causing dry flaky patches to form.
There are 2 ways to use VELVET:
Before washing: This method is the one we would advise most for people suffering with dandruff, before washing the hair simply massage some of the oil into your scalp and throughout the hair. Allow this to sit on the scalp for around 1 hour before washing out with DAILY Cleansing Shampoo. Allowing this to soak into the scalp will help to soften the dry skin, allowing this to wash away easier when shampooing.
In-between washing: Pump a small amount of velvet onto your hair brush and brush through the hair starting at the ends and working your way up to the roots. The little that’s left over on the brush by the time you make it to the roots will provide some extra moisture and hydration without causing the hair to look greasy and weighed down. Remember a little goes a long way!
Use a scalp massager
These are a fantastic way to help budge any stubborn dry and flaky patches. Best used in conjunction with DAILY Cleansing Shampoo & Conditioner in the shower. A scalp massager works by gently lifting away product build-up, excess oil and loose skin cells whilst also stimulating circulation. This improves blood flow to encourage a healthier scalp - just apply light pressure in circular motions.
Protect from heat
Heat from things such as hair dryers can dry the scalp further and make dandruff appear worse, try drying the hair on the coolest setting. Excessive heat doesn’t just affect your hair lengths, it can also disrupt the moisture balance in your scalp. High temperatures can also increase dryness and irritation, especially if your scalp is already prone to flaking.
Use heat protection like our MIRACLE Rapid Blow-Dry Mist, spraying from root to tip. This product works to shield hair from heat, whilst quickly drying, taming flyaways and enhancing shine. We’d also recommend using the diffuser attachment on your HERØ Ionic Technology Hair Dryer evenly distribute heat across your locks, rather than concentrating in one area.
Video Credit: Instagram @unbeweavablehairsalon
Ensure you exercise
Strangely enough, not getting enough exercise can worsen any pre-existing skin conditions. Remember that exercise increases blood circulation which in turn helps to prevent skin problems from flaring up. Exercising regularly can improve circulation throughout your body, including on your scalp. Increasing blood flow helps deliver nutrients and oxygen to your skin, supporting your overall scalp health.
Regular brushing
Regular hair brushing is another key way to help prevent dead skin cells from building up, the bristles of the brush will naturally and gently exfoliate your scalp and increase blood flow. In addition to detangling and smoothing your hair, brushing can help loosen debris and distribute natural oils from root to tip. For best results, use a high quality brush with soft bristles.
Dandruff might be common, but it doesn’t have to be constant. By understanding its causes, it can be treated without stripping natural oils, instead soothing and protecting. With the right combination of DAILY Cleansing Shampoo & Conditioner, nourishing oils like VELVET Nourishing Hair Oil, and mindful habits such as heat protection and regular scalp stimulation, you can transform your routine from reactive to restorative.
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